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Old 2022-04-25, 16:15   #23
storm5510
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My sister has a 2015 Ford Explorer. It has more bells and whistles than anything I have ever seen before, plus a touch screen. To me, all of this is just that much more to cause problems. I am glad I do not have to deal with anything like that. This truck does not have electric windows or door locks. All of my dad's trucks before had manual transmissions. This one is automatic and has A/C. He would not have wanted to electric's in the doors. The radio, he probably never used. All of his cars were automatic's so it is was not like a totally new experience for him. He just wanted what he was used to.

As for tires, all of mine are relatively new. Every time I go out to drive anywhere, I look at every one closely. This is where the aging problem could arise again. I check them for dry rot. I carry a foot operated air pump in the back. There is a little seepage. I generally pump them to 35 PSI. The repair shop must have blown them up to around 40 because I could feel every little seam and irregularity in the road after they were finished with it.
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:25   #24
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Originally Posted by VBCurtis View Post
The fix-a-flat kits leave gunk all over the inside of the wheel; this gunk makes future tire balancing difficult, so it should be cleaned when the offending tire is replaced.
I've heard that the gunk also causes problems with the tire pressure sensors. That you have to replace it if you use the gunk.
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:29   #25
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The downside is reduced ride quality, as the tire is so stiff it doesn't absorb small impacts well.
Frankly, my dear, I don't give a damn about the ride quality in such circumstances. All I care about is being sufficiently mobile that I can get somewhere to have it fixed properly.
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:32   #26
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Originally Posted by Uncwilly View Post
The new Mini's come with "run flat's". They are good for about 80 kph and about 80 km.
A European-manufactured vehicle. I wonder if that is relevant.

My Nissan has the foam version.
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:36   #27
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Quote:
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Frankly, my dear, I don't give a damn about the ride quality in such circumstances.
I believe the ride quality was in reference to the ride in general, not when there was no air in the tire.
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:48   #28
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Originally Posted by Uncwilly View Post
I've heard that the gunk also causes problems with the tire pressure sensors. That you have to replace it if you use the gunk.
I have really never understood how tire pressure sensors work. Obviously, they cannot be hard wired with a rotating wheel. This would leave some type of radio signal which would require a power source. The first time I heard of these, GM was installing them on Corvette's. If this is something connected to a valve stem on a wheel, then it could be tampered with, or stolen, by anyone. I need to do some "Googling."
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Old 2022-04-25, 16:52   #29
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They are on the interior of the the rim behind the valve stem. They are powered by the rotation of the wheel.
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Old 2022-04-25, 19:46   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncwilly View Post
I believe the ride quality was in reference to the ride in general, not when there was no air in the tire.
Correct- the ride quality of run-flat tires suffers always, compared to a normal tire of the same sidewall height. BMW in particular has been called out by many car magazines for failing to compensate for this in suspension tuning, making for not only a jarring ride but so little compliance that pothole impacts can bend wheels.
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Old 2022-04-25, 23:18   #31
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It also needed an oil change because it had gasoline in the oil from where I cranked it so much trying to start it.
We forgot to mention that this part of your repair doesn't make any sense. It would make sense, maybe, if you had a carburetor-equipped truck, but yours is fuel-injected. Also, you'd have to crank the engine for a very very long time for the gas to wash by the rings enough to contaminate the oil.



PS - One tip on FI cars: If you do manage to flood the engine, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank it for 5-10 seconds. Doing so turns off the fuel in most cars and allows you to clear the flooding.

PPS - We always look at "won't start" problems as a lack of fuel, air, compression OR spark. (In acute cases it is rarely an "AND" case.) Usually, the fuel and air part are easily diagnosed. Compression is rarely the problem for an acute problem. Lack of sufficient spark is usually what we find. In those cases the vast majority are battery-age-related. YMMV of course.

PPPS - A $50 code reader is a very good tool to have in the glove box. Along with a printed-out code table.
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Old 2022-04-26, 00:20   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xyzzy View Post
...
PS - One tip on FI cars: If you do manage to flood the engine, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank it for 5-10 seconds. Doing so turns off the fuel in most cars and allows you to clear the flooding.

PPS - We always look at "won't start" problems as a lack of fuel, air, compression OR spark. (In acute cases it is rarely an "AND" case.) Usually, the fuel and air part are easily diagnosed. Compression is rarely the problem for an acute problem. Lack of sufficient spark is usually what we find. In those cases the vast majority are battery-age-related. YMMV of course.
...
When a carburettor engine is flooded one uses the same technique : open up gas fully and crank the engine a few times.
My last motorcycles didn't need a battery : they had a magneto, much more reliable as illustrated by the fact that they are still used on aircraft piston engines.

Last fiddled with by S485122 on 2022-04-26 at 00:20 Reason: tag
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Old 2022-04-26, 01:04   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S485122 View Post
they had a magneto, much more reliable as illustrated by the fact that they are still used on aircraft piston engines.
They have them in pairs, because they do fail:
https://kellyaero.com/magneto-failure-overview/
https://generalaviationnews.com/2020...gency-landing/
https://generalaviationnews.com/2004...hat-kills-one/
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